The kirtle is an oatmeal colored linen, with long sleeves that button to the elbow and spiral lacing up the front. Right now the lace is just a piece of ribbon. Eventually it will be a nice fingerlooped cord, the client has a friend who does this so I don't need to supply that. The eyelets are all hand-bound and the bodice seams are hand finished.
The over gown buttons down the front and has angel wing or trump sleeves which fold back a bit at the wrist to expose the kirtle sleeves. I ended up with some extra fabric in the sleeve head so rather than re-cutting the sleeves I made some small pleats in the back of the sleeves. I haven't seen this done on women's fitted gowns, but I have seen it on men's and it actually made the sleeve hand rather nicely so I'm ok with the small bit of pleating. It was a better solution that loosing length in the sleeves. The seams are machine finished on the inside, and everything is hand finished on the outside.