Monday, June 18, 2012
Mary of Hungary
Anyway, the dress is supposedly dated to 1520, however the only other artistic representation of this style of gown I've been able to find so far is dated 1490. It does sort of look like a cross between a late 15th century Burgundian gown and an early 16th century gown, so I'm wondering what the correct dating is.
I'm also not sure what the correct supportive undergarment would be for this. My initial thought, given the 1520 dating, is a pair of bodies maybe with an attached petticoat, work under the smocked chemise. Someone else suggested a 15th century style kirtle, and yet another person has suggested that the chemise is actually the body layer and the kirtle would then go over it. Given the limited source material I have on this style, I'm not sure. Wearing a chemise with silver embroidery on it next to the skin seems a little strange to me, as you can't really wash the embroidery. Plus the stove tile that is my only other reference at this point appears to show the chemise without anything over it.
Has anyone seen any other references to this gown that might solve the dating/underwear questions? So far I have the following-
Original article on Cynthia Virtue's site, with the stove tile image
Image gallery on Flight of Fancy
Project Diary/notes from Flight of Fancy - she mentioned two books as additional sources which I do not have access to
Hungarian National Museum description
Frazzeld Frau write-up
Pintrest board by Marion McNealy - the portraits here suggest an earlier dating (1475-90). Marion has also told me that the museum is now dating the fabric to 1475, which given the images we have so far makes more sense.